Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Bezirgan Village Near Kalkan



Kalkan is located only 17 kilometers away from the beautiful yayla (high mountain valley) village of Bezirgan, elevation 700 metres. Historically, many locals of Kalkan have owned land both in Kalkan and in Bezirgan. Today many still follow the pattern of their ancestors, spending summers in the coolness of the mountains and winters near the warm coast. During the summer months about 650 people live here and this number drops to about 150 in the winter when the population moves back down to the coast.
Bezirgan is a completely different environment from what you see on the coast.  It is an authentic working Turkish village and the people living here live much as their ancestors did 100 years ago.  The village is nestled on an ancient lake bed of rich soil which supports a luxurious coat of fertile fields yielding grains and chickpeas, lush orchards and grazing land for sheep and goats.
Bezirgan Village Near Kalkan
One reaches the village after an lovely drive high above Kalkan with a spectacular view of the Mediterranean below as well as a look into the depths of the Kaputaş Gorge.  A remarkable change in vegetation is seen before one reaches the crest of the mountain valley where Bezirgan lays below in all its beauty.
There’s a lot to see in Bezirgan – charming village houses and gardens and depending on the season you will see planting, animals being shorn, wool processed, grain winnowed and fruit and vegetables laid out for winter use.   Bezirgan is a relaxing place and its friendly people are full of traditional Turkish hospitality. The village makes an interesting daytrip.  You can take walks about the village and observe Turkish country life with its slow pace or alternatively, walks in the mountains encircling the village.  There are also several Lycian ruins to be seen within the village itself.  Or sit outside and have a cup of tea at the tea house in the central grassy “square” and watch the local men play the game “OK”, tavla (backgammon) and dominoes.
Bezirgan near Kalkan
Don’t miss the large cluster of ambars in the southwest corner of the village.  These are traditional wooden grain storehouses with a construction method carried over from the ancient Lycians.  You can read about them here (see the bottom of this page for a photo).  If you take the trail leading past the ambars, you can hike to the top of the mountain and get a fantastic view over Kalkan and the sea.
A trip to Bezirgan is an opportunity for a glimpse into a very different way of life than most of us are used to, a visit back in time.  The most beautiful time of the year to visit is in May when the valley is covered in sweeping fields of crimson poppies.
Bezirgan

Influence of Lycian House Construction on
Architecture in Lycia Today

Wooden grain storehouses and "ambars" (a large type of storehouse) are often seen in Lycia - almost primarily in Lycia, in the area between Bezirgan and Elmali.  They share many characteristics with Lycian rock-cut house-type tombs and may be a last vestige of Lycian house construction methods.  The best examples of these storehouses are in the village of Beyler near Elmali.  Unfortunately, there are only a few masters alive who know how to construct these buildings using a technique of interlocking joints; it seems that the art will die with them.
grain storehouses, Lycia
Village of Yavu near the site of Cyaneae
 
grain storehouse, Lycia
Semi-nomadic settlement near Cyaneae
 
Interior of a grain storehouse, Sidyma
 
Ambar in village of Beyler near Elmali, next to the side of the main road
 
Detail of the above ambar
 
Ambars, village of Beyler, near Elmali (across the street from the ambar in the above photo, tucked behind a building - many ambars in this grouping).
 
More ambars, village of Beyler, near Elmali
 
Ambars in Bezirgan village near Kalkan.

Situated 700 metres up in the Taurus Mountains and 22km from the coast of the Mediterranean is the summer village of Bezirgan.  During the hot months of summer residents from Kalkan move here for the cooler temperatures.
In modern times it serves primarily as a farming village; producing wheat, chickpeas, sesame, almonds and walnuts.  The village comprises of many traditional farmhouses, constructed from stone, cedar wood and covered with soil roofs.  Being constructed from these materials makes these houses naturally cool.  More recently some of these roofs have been restored with modern tiles; however, a large number of these traditional buildings are now going to ruin.
Bezirgan was historically the site of the ancient city of Pirha.  Currently only the city walls remain, but small traces of temples and buildings amongst the rubble show the city must have been impressive.If you are interested in nature and wildlife you should add Bezirgan to your list of places to visit.  It is an ideal place for bird watching as it is home to a large variety of species, located throughout the mountains and on the plains.


Pirha Ruins
 

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