Wednesday, September 16, 2015

Kekova Island (Sunken City)

 
The namesake of the region, the island of Kekova is located in front of Kaleköy. Boats can pull alongside the Tersane Bay on the island. Here, the apsis of a church from the Byzantine period can be seen. The history of the island isn’t exactly known but it is full of ancient remains. Traces of the sunken city and straits can be seen under water while passing the site in a boat. Now officially declared as a national park, the area is under protection and diving is prohibited.
Kekova (Dolichiste in the Lykian language) is a small, rocky island off the coast of Kaleköy and Üçağız, near the Demre country of Antalya. Its name is given as “Kakava” in many records. The 4.5 Km2 Island is completely uninhabited. The island is accessible by boat. 
Following the Italian occupation, Turkey and Italy couldn’t reach an agreement for some time as to who had the right to the island. However, it was eventually given to Turkey in an agreement made in 1932. 
One can see submerged structures from an ancient Dolkishte city, which was destroyed by earthquakes in the 2nd Century AD. Kekova was rebuilt and developed during the Byzantine period, but its development came to a halt due to Arab invasions.
Kekova and its neighbouring regions were officially declared protected areas by the Ministry of Environment and Forests on June 18, 1990. Although all swimming and diving activities initially required special permission from the government, this ban was later revoked outside the areas in which the ancient submerged structures are found. 
7.4 km long and approximately 500 m wide, the island extends parallel to the villages of Kaleköy (Simena) and Uçağız (Teimiusa), giving its name to the entire area, which is known as the Kekova Region. Its highest point is 188 m, while the deepest part of the sea between the island and the mainland is 105 m. Thanks to its recent popularity, Kekova has become a commonly used name in the tourism and protectionism fields. Even the boat tours in the area have become known as “Kekova tours.” More importantly, the island and the archaeological and natural reserve areas around it are now called the “Kekova Protected Area”. 
Having the cleanest sea, not only in Antalya, but in the entire Mediterranean region, Kekova owes this cleanliness to its protected status. The fact that it is acclaimed for its pristine waters by foreign visitors is a source of pride for the Turkish Republic in international preservation circles. Unlike the two small ports opposite, Kekova has never been built up as a large urban centre, but rather the island has been used as a curtain protecting these two cities against the Mediterranean, as a haven for sailors and a base for ship building and repairing. Known as the “Sunken City”, the remains on the north western shores of the island are the most colourful part of Kekova, which has been used as a commercial and military base since the 5th century BC. Tersane Bay is a location where swimming is allowed and has the most archaeological remains, including a basilica apsis from the Byzantine period. The nearby area known as the sunken city contains settlement remains carved into stone and foundations of structures submerged in its waters. The fact that only the buildings in this area are underwater can potentially be explained by the occurrence of an earthquake; such an event may have caused this part of the island to incline towards the mainland.
 
 

Üçağız & Kekova

Declared off-limits to development, Üçağız (ooch-eye-iz) is a quaint fishing and farming village in an absolutely idyllic setting on a bay amid islands and peninsulas. Little has changed here over the years and the teensy squiggle of lanes behind the harbour is a watercolour-worthy scene of rustic cottages and rural life. Üçağız is a regular stop on the gület (Turkish yacht) circuit and the jumping-off point for visiting the sunken city at Kekova and the secluded settlement of Kaleköy. During summer an armada of tour buses pull into the car park, rush groups onto the waiting boats, and then shuffle their sunburnt charges back onto the buses at the end of the day, while Üçağız snaps back into snooze mode for the evening. Staying overnight, with little to do except appreciate the glorious silence, is a delight.
A few words about where you are and what's what: the village you enter from the coastal highway is Üçağız, ancient Teimiussa, with its own Lycian necropolis. Across the water on the peninsula to the southeast is Kaleköy (called Kale locally), a protected village on the site of the ancient city of Simena.
South of the villages and past the channel entrance is the long island of Kekova with its famous underwater ruins; local people generally use this name to refer to the whole area. To the west on the Sıçak Peninsula is Aperlae, an isolated and very evocative ancient Lycian city on the Lycian Way.

You should see the tiny Mediterranean fishing village of Üçağız, 39 km (24 miles) east of Kaş by road (map), before it's spoiled.
The best way is on a boat excursion from nearby Kaş, or from Çayağzı near Demre-Myra.
Okay, Üçağız (EWCH-ah-uhz, "Three Mouths," for the three rivers that debouche here) is no longer the perfectly authentic little Mediterranean seaside hamlet that it was in 1990, but the government is limiting new building so it's still pretty nice.
Old village houses are interspersed with tall stone Lycian tombs over 2000 years old, and the marble ruins of a Roman "sunken city" still glisten beneath the pellucid waters of the Mediterranean just offshore.
In 1990 there wasn't even a decent road into the place. Most people came by boat then--and they still do, because the road, although paved, twists through the hills for 19 km from the coastal highway.
Whether you start from Kaş or Çayağzı, or whether you drive to Üçagiz and join a boat tour there, you'll also be dropped at the pristine village of Kaleköy (Castle Village) to walk its streets, have tea in its cafés, and see its little fortress.
Üçağız has some pretty good restaurants for the yachters who moor here for lunch, and a few small, simple lodging-places, but the beds tend to fill up in summer, so if you want to stay here awhile your best bet is to come on a day-trip, ask around, find a room, make a reservation, and come back with your stuff.

Nisa (Sütleğen)


Nisa is located 60 km from Kaş and is an important plateau village. The archaeological site is within a 15-minute travel distance from the city. The Lykian name of the city, Neiseus, is inscribed on the ruins of an ancient theatre wall. Both Lykian and Roman remains can be found in Nisa. Spears, shields, and depictions of women and men are found on the exteriors on some of the sarcophagi found there. The ancient city has an agora and a theatre. A number of coins issued in the Lykia Federation period are exhibited in Antalya Museum. 
History
The name of the village is derived from the large quantities of Sütleğen plant found that can be found in the local area. The village’s history diverged from that of the Akörü village in 1952. There is an ancient Lykian city in the village. The city’s drinking water network was supplied from two main sources – the Kayalıbaşı and Pınarbaşı springs. This information was determined as a result of local excavations, which unearthed calcified water pipes made from clinker. It is estimated that the city was inhabited by around 1000 people during its time. Since archaeological research cannot be undertaken by the government, no detailed information is available. Renowned for issuing coins for the first time during Hellenistic period, coins from Nisa are exhibited in Antalya Museum. Although they are being damaged, they cannot be put under protection due to the lack of a police station in the village. Treasure hunters are currently able to make uncontrolled excavations. 
Nisa is situated 35 km north of Kaş, near a mountain pass known as Sinekçi Beli, in a location known as Meryemlik. Nisa is a word derived from the Luwi or Lykia language, but its meaning is unknown. Neither does it have a meaning in the Hellen language. It came into prominence during the Hellenistic Age for issuing coins. Its city walls were built with huge stones and rough workmanship. An arched temenos gate can be seen in the southern section. Among other surviving structures in Nisa is a 700-800 seat Roman theatre leaning on a slope whose cavea is in relatively good condition. The stoa of the agora is next to the edge of the upper row of theatre seats and reflects Hellenistic workmanship. The stadium has been completely destroyed with the exception of a few rows. One can observe sarcophagi here and there. The remains are visible on land and extend over a wide area. 
Culture
Women make phyllo collectively. Haricot beans, rice, and Bazlama (yeast bread) are staples of the local cuisine. Also included are delicious meat dishes, tarhana soup, grape molasses, honeydew honey and various types of fruit jams. 
Geography
Nisa is located 174 km from Antalya and 65 km Kaş. There are direct minibus services that run to the city centre (8 minibuses travel to Antalya city centre during the day). It is one of the most developed and most social plateau villages of Kaş. It is located in close proximity to Kalkan and Fethiye. Nisa is a developed town with a wide range of businesses and is also suitable location for plateau tourism. 
Climate 
It is surrounded by a a forest and plateau forest within cedar woods. Although cool in summer and cold in winter. Nisa has a mild climate because it faces the sea, which is 45 km away from the village. Since it is surrounded by mountains, it has excellent mountain air, which provides a unique therapeutic effect for certain diseases.  
Economy
Village economy is based on agriculture, animal husbandry and forestry. Over the years, animal husbandry has gradually decreased in importance. Young people of the village travel to nearby cities, as there aren’t a sufficient number of jobs in the village. Apple growing is a common profession in the village. Nisa has lands suitable for growing grapes, walnuts, hazelnuts, harsh climate fruits, corn and peas. There are around ten convenience stores, two hardware stores, ten sawmills, two classic flour mills, two middle-sized flour and feed factories, one draper, one ready-to-wear store, two barber shops, two middle-sized restaurants, three electricians and a plumber, one cold and five hot ironsmiths, two internet cafes and one telephone store. There is also a bakery, a shopping mall and a repairer. Woodworking, with cedar in particular, is common due to Nisa’s proximity to cedar forests. Many people come to the village in the summer for to enjoy its cool weather. The village’s water is potable and quite cold. The village is supplied with irrigation water as well. 

 
 

Gombe and Ucarsu Waterfall

The name Komba in time was changed to Gömbe. The oldest known venue for Turkey’s national sport ‘oil wrestling’ is Gömbe and from time to time it also supplied grain to the Islands of Meis and Rhodos. As much as Gömbe is famous for its juicy apples, pears and walnuts are of a high quality. There are three notably sources of water arising from the eastern slopes of akdag; Uçarsu Falls, Akçasu and Sırado.

 Gömbe is west Antalya’s largest nomadic rural tourism centre and Turkey’s third largest plateau. During the summer the population increases to around 50,000 people. In the winter the population drops down to around 5,000 people.
Gömbe is situated approximately 1,500m above sea level therefore enjoys in abundance stunning mountainous scenery. Gömbe can be reached by driving through the narrow, winding streets of quaint villages as well as encountering the awe-inspiring, breathtaking cedar forests in Turkey. In 2014 the cedar forest have been declared a National Park.


 The vegetation enables many types of fruit can be grown, the landscape is clad with many different shades of green transporting you into another world. The gentle Mediterranean breeze of Kaş quickly transforms itself into cool, refreshing mountain air which evokes ones virtual imagination.
As the coastal regions experience the extreme summer temperatures, in Gömbe it is not possible to sleep without an eiderdown.
Gömbe is regarded as one of the most important tourism centres for rural, nomadic culture. It is noted for the abundance of sweet, fresh water.
Elmalı and the surrounding neighbouring villages agricultural irrigation needs are met by a newly constructed dam. Because of these unique qualities Gombe has throughout history become the regional centre of all the rural, nomadic villages shopping, eating and drinking needs.
Nowadays, a historical local farmers marketplace has been set up in the months of July and August; local people and visitors alike are subjected to the intense interest the local farmers market attracts.
 Due to the cold and snowy winter’s the population of Gombe decreases considerably during the winter season. During summer season, the population increases significantly due to the influx of daily visitors or from the rural nomads who continue to sustain a traditional nomadic existence during the summer season.
Because of wonderful natural beauty and the clean, fresh air the region has become a centre of attraction for walking enthusiasts and the most popular routes are: Pinarbaşı, Cukurbağ, Akarsu and beyond is Yeşil Lake. The name ‘Yeşil’ which means green has been derived from the unique colours of the lake.
The region has become an important trekking location and destination. The area is unrivalled for those who enjoy country walks taking in the clean, fresh mountain air.
 Altough the normadic culture has almost come to the point of extinction in Turkey, in our region the nomadic culture and tradition is very much alive. Different nomadic tribes have erected thier own tribal nomadic tents. Due to the mountainous region the antiquated farming machinerey is still to this very day pulled by donkey and oxon. Nomadic tribal hand woven carpets, local handicraft, locally produced cheeses encased in it’s own skin and butter are some of the locally produced products sold at the Friday market.
Customers can come as far as the state of Izmir to purchase them. Our town is an alternative escape for those who have a passion for nature or want to get away from the searing heat of the Mediterranean coastline. Another unique feature is the stream flowing through the heart of the rural land and by the side of the stream, endemic plants and dried mushrooms grow in the wild. These locally sourced products which cannot be found in most other regions of the country are sold in the local market place. There is huge demand for these products from both the internal and external ma
Located just below the end of the western Taurus Akdag (white Mountain),at 1,200m above sea level, Gömbe is a place where apples are grown.At 1,800m above sea level there is a crater lake called the Green lake This lake is the source of a river  called uçarsu,which leads into a valley before flowing down a waterfall.Because of this,the river got the name uçarsu(flying water).the flow actually changes direction between the summer and wintermonths.the history of the legend of the river attracts local and foreign visitors.
According to legend,an elderly person walked the road one day and became very tired At the foot of the mountain,people of a village wanted water,but couldn t get any.ln the meantime,the old man met a young woman who was carrying some water.He stretched out his hand to ask for some,but she replied that she just had enough for her,and the baby on her back.Suddenly the old man disappeared and from the place that he was standing,water began to gush out of the ground.The water flowed down  Akdag hill faster and  faster and then became a waterfall.Thus,the river got  the name from the locals,Uçarsu.
The elderly person is supposed to have lived in Elmalı and the local people trust in the legend,as told by Abdal Musa.For this reason,the one hour s walk to Uçarsu is famous and visitors can eat in the local restaurants,the fabulous Gömbe kebabrkets.

Ucarsu Waterfall is 250 meters south east of Lake Yesil. Ucarsu Waterfall is behind a small hill when walked about 5 minutes through the pathway at Lake Yesil's bank.
In order to see the waterfall better one must walk down about a hundred meters. Ucarsu Waterfall is worth to see though walking down and climbing up seem difficult. A small lake, Lake Aygir is situated about 1km southwest of Lake Yesil. Waters run beneath the lake turn into a natural fountain and form Ucarsu Waterfall.
Ucarsu Waterfall flows towards Gombe joins Subasi Stream and runs into Lake Avlan. Gombe side of mountain Akdaglar is always cooler and west side that faces towards Fethiye is relatively warmer. Peak districts of mountain Akdaglar are always snowy in winters and it is possible to see the snow white hills even in month of July. Lakes in this district freeze up.

Ucarsu Waterfall does not flow in winters when the frozen water sources stop. But the streams on the west side of the mountain keep on flowing. Summer conditions are just the contrary to winters. Ucarsu Waterfall begins to flow powerfully when the ice melts but the streams on the west side dry. Ucarsu Waterfall keeps on flowing until month of October then the sources stop feeding.
The villagers of this region regard mountain Akdaglar and Ucarsu Waterfall as holy.

Arykanda


Arykanda
Feeling the need for a dose of history, as if just living amongst it here isn’t enough, I made another visit to the ancient city of Arykanda on Sunday. It’s quite a curious place, evidence suggests that it was initially built in the 5th Century B.C. by the Lycians then some parts had to be rebuilt by the Greeks and then again by the Romans and was used up to the 11th Century A.D. when the settlement moved down by what became the old main road.
We always seem to have marked periods of our history by wars and invasions, at least that’s how it seems to me and I always find it sad that we needed to protect ourselves from from attackers and invaders by building fortified places to live. It’s a great shame that we couldn’t live peaceably but an even greater shame that we usually obliterated the civilisation and history of a people that we attacked and defeated. If we had kept and preserved the knowledge and discoveries of conquered peoples how much more rich would our lives be now?
Imagine how tough life must have been, not only was it hard enough to farm and grow enough to sustain ourselves but there was the constant worry of whether a marauding band of ne’er do wells bent on death, destruction, rape and pillage was just over the horizon heading straight for your village. No surprise that folk chose to build places that could be better defended and of course to begin with they chose the most inaccessible place available, and that brings me to Arykanda. It is situated on a very steep slope right under a huge vertical cliff, just to wander around it’s different levels requires the agility and lungs of a mountain goat (of which there are plenty but you can’t get near them), indeed the slope is so steep that there wasn’t room for a complete stadium so they had to build a half stadium with seats only on one side, a steep drop fifty feet down to the theatre being on the other side. Still the gladiators could throw each other off the edge if the crowd gave the thumbs down, I don’t suppose they had many lions or other wild animals there though, what with one side of the stadium being completely open.
Only a few rows of stone seats in the half stadium
Another thing that I wondered about while getting my breath back was the lack of ordinary peoples’ houses. The pamphlet that accompanies the receipt for your entry fee mentions an area that is thought to have been the original residential area of the city, there are a couple of other areas where there are a few houses but these were stone built and would not have housed everybody.
Decoration marking steps on the half stadium seats, the theatre steps have the same decoration, could they have been painted white to make the steps more obvious?
These cities always have the bath houses, temples and markets etc. and even the small theatres are usually built to seat an audience of at least six thousand, that seems to be the standard entry level theatre size, but where did all these people live? Nowhere have I seen any housing, or the remains of it, for the workers, the poor guys cutting all this rock and lugging it up vertiginous slopes to make a nice bath complex for the rich people to luxuriate in, for example. It seems to me to be very likely that the lower status housing would have been simply and cheaply constructed of wood and mud, materials that degraded and were absorbed back into the land due to the weather. Anyway it was a nice day out, we took the very pleasant back road from Çukurbağ through Kasaba, Dirgenler and Çamlıbel and had a pleasant lunch at the main road watering hole afterwards.
The theatre is below the open side of the half stadium.
Arycanda (Arykanda) is a unique Lycian city, built upon five large terraces ascending a mountain slope, and was known for having the most pleasure and entertainment-loving (and debt-ridden) citizens. The city overlooks a magnificent valley and its view makes it one of the most spectacular sites in Lycia.Located near the small village of Aykiriçay, on the Elmali-Finike road.
Arycanda is known to be one of the oldest Lycian sites - its name ends with -anda, indicitive of its Anatolian origin dating back as far as the second millennium BC. Some of the oldest coins of Lycia (5th c. BC were also found here during a recent digging; the site is under continuous excavation.
Gods and goddesses known to have been worshipped here are: Apollo, Ares, Artemis (in the forms of Kombike, Lagbene, Tharsenike and Eleuthera), Athena, Kakasbos (an Anatolian horseman-deity), Hera, Helios, Mithras, Tyche, Asklepios, Hygeia, Hercules, Hermes, Aphrodite, Somondeus (a mountain god), and Nemesis .
Arycanda survived through Byzantine times, until the 9th century when the settlement moved to a new site south of the modern road.
Excavations and restoration work in recent years have succeeded in unearthing a beautiful city, well-organized with the look of an architectural model.
Luckily for us, whether due to landslides, earthquakes or the difficulty for robbers in getting material down to the sea (there were sites nearer to the sea for that), Arycanda has not lost much of its large-scale materials except for the columns of the agora. Also, with no large settlement nearby in later years, many things have been spared the lime-kilns, at least none have been found on site yet. Since much of the site has been protected by landslips, the limestone of Arycanda's buildings looks quite fresh.
Some features of this magnificent city include:
Largest bath complex in Lycia, on the lowest terrace, still virtually intact in its sequence of arches, next to the gymnasium.
Agora, some of the shops in its eastern part can still be seen. It is wide and flat, located to the south of the odeon and was enclosed on three sides by a portico.
Amphitheatre, in excellent condition, built during the 2nd century AD. 20 rows of seats, divided into 7 sections. At the edge of every row are holes that were used to support protective awnings.
Odeon - 2nd century AD. The main entrance is to the south, though a triple portal. This was once a very ornate building, the interior was lined with orthostats and the walls, orchestra and seats were once covered with coloured marble. A frieze over the portal bears a portrait of the Emperor Hadrian flanked by cartouches bearing masks and heads of deities in relief.
Stadium, from the Hellenistic period, above the theatre, in the form of a running track. It is smaller than a usual stadium, measuring 106 m. long and 17 m. wide. A few step-like seats on its north side are all that remain of the stadium.
Necropolises, there are two of them, and the one on the entrance to the site is very interesting with its series of richly decorated funerary monuments. The eastern necropolis has barrel-vaulted monumental tombs, temple-tombs and sarcophagi and the western necropolis has rock-cut tombs and barrel-valuted tombs.
Bouleuterion, where the council met, located on the northwest slope of the city at the end of a 137 metre long stoa. The building is set into a mountain slope, with rows of seats cut into living rock.
 
 
Located along the western slope of Aykırıçay (the ancient Arykandos River) near Arif Village, exactly in the middle of Elmalı-Finike motorway. The oldest documents found are coins from the period of Limyra King Perikles. Once ruled by Alexander, the city passed into Seleucids after Ptolemaios; after Apamea peace it was controlled by Rhodes. In the 2nd century BC, Arykanda produced coins as a city included in Lykia Confederation. It was annexed to Rome in 43 AD, after Emperor Claudius put an end to the Lykia Confederation. The city was partially rebuilt after an earthquake in 240 AD. Its name became Akalanda during Byzantine rule. The city, which we know through its remains and Byzantine documents, is known to have existed until the 11th century, after which it was relocated.
There is a stadium in the uppermost terrace of the city, which displays a residential form of terraces. Among the visible ruins of this ancient city are the Odeon Theatre, agora, agora stoa, small bath, gymnasium, bouleterion, cistern, inscription house and a fountain.
It’s an archaeological site near the Aykırıçay district of Arif Village, located in the middle of Elmalı – Finike motorway. There is no information based on archaeological or written resources about the city’s founding, but since Arykanda is philogically a native name; it is known to be an ancient settlement area. Considering the ‘Anda’ suffix, it can be assumed that this city existed since 2000 BC. Natives of the period are known to have referred to Arykanda as ‘Arykawanda’. The work of Dr. Cevdet Bayburtluoğlu, a professor at Ankara University, has been especially valuable in the excavations of Arykanda ancient city. 
In one of the uppermost terraces of Arykanda there is a stadium with a one-sided seating area; its running track becomes a trapeze shape after a certain point. A small but very well preserved theatre can be found in the terrace one level below the stadium, which is connected to lower terraces by a stairway near its centre. In the lower terrace of the theatre, there is an Odeon with a stairway connecting to it. A U-shaped porch in front of the Odeon surrounds the agora. Sarcophagi can be found outside tomb vaults in the necropolis.
There is a large bath remained intact up to its second floor in the lowest terrace of tomb buildings. Some of the most fascinating ruins of the city are the waterways on rocks, near Aykırıçay Spring.

Arykanda
Arykanda, in Lycia in southern Turkey, is an ancient city built on five large terraces that ascend a steep slope and overlook a magnificent valley. The city dates back to the seventh century B.C., but most of its remaining ruins date from between the fifth century B.C. and the Roman period, when the city enjoyed its greatest prosperity. After the city was severely damaged in an earthquake in the third century A.D., it was largely abandoned and left untouched for more than a thousand years. The level of preservation is incredible, according to Jennifer Tobin, an archaeologist with the University of Illinois in Chicago. She compares Arykanda to the more famous ruins of Delphi in Greece—only bigger and without all the tourists. Tobin, a specialist in the archaeology of Turkey, was shocked when she first saw Arykanda. "When you see the site, you really feel like a nineteenth-century traveler who just happened upon the site for the first time," she says. "It is a truly magical place."
The site
Arykanda’s wealth came from lumber—it was a source for much of the ancient world and was located on a river, where the wood could be sailed down to the sea to be sold. Today, the ruins of the city climb steeply up the hillside, and visitors can ascend the original stairs. Near the entrance, visitors will see the "street of tombs," a roadway lined with richly decorated monuments. On the terraces, among other structures, are seven bath complexes, an agora where the remains of shops can still be seen, a well-preserved theater, and an odeon where a frieze bearing a portrait of the emperor Hadrian was found. Above that is a stadium with tremendous views of the valley below. Free of crowds, it’s an excellent place for a picnic, says Tobin.
While you are there
When you’re done touring the site—you’ll need at least three hours to cover it completely, says Tobin—walk a little bit inland to see a cascading waterfall, one of the natural springs that used to supply the city’s water. There, local farmers and truckers mill about in the shade, enjoying ice cream, fruit, nuts, and beverages from concession stands. The locals will be thrilled to have you, says Tobin, and normally offer some of their food or drink. Arykanda is on the Finike-Elmali Road. Following its "Elmali" signs through the plain of Finike will bring you to the riverside Altintas restaurant for fish and grilled meat. If you plan to stay overnight, there are hotels in nearby Antaly, Kemar, or Kosh.

Bezirgan Village Near Kalkan



Kalkan is located only 17 kilometers away from the beautiful yayla (high mountain valley) village of Bezirgan, elevation 700 metres. Historically, many locals of Kalkan have owned land both in Kalkan and in Bezirgan. Today many still follow the pattern of their ancestors, spending summers in the coolness of the mountains and winters near the warm coast. During the summer months about 650 people live here and this number drops to about 150 in the winter when the population moves back down to the coast.
Bezirgan is a completely different environment from what you see on the coast.  It is an authentic working Turkish village and the people living here live much as their ancestors did 100 years ago.  The village is nestled on an ancient lake bed of rich soil which supports a luxurious coat of fertile fields yielding grains and chickpeas, lush orchards and grazing land for sheep and goats.
Bezirgan Village Near Kalkan
One reaches the village after an lovely drive high above Kalkan with a spectacular view of the Mediterranean below as well as a look into the depths of the Kaputaş Gorge.  A remarkable change in vegetation is seen before one reaches the crest of the mountain valley where Bezirgan lays below in all its beauty.
There’s a lot to see in Bezirgan – charming village houses and gardens and depending on the season you will see planting, animals being shorn, wool processed, grain winnowed and fruit and vegetables laid out for winter use.   Bezirgan is a relaxing place and its friendly people are full of traditional Turkish hospitality. The village makes an interesting daytrip.  You can take walks about the village and observe Turkish country life with its slow pace or alternatively, walks in the mountains encircling the village.  There are also several Lycian ruins to be seen within the village itself.  Or sit outside and have a cup of tea at the tea house in the central grassy “square” and watch the local men play the game “OK”, tavla (backgammon) and dominoes.
Bezirgan near Kalkan
Don’t miss the large cluster of ambars in the southwest corner of the village.  These are traditional wooden grain storehouses with a construction method carried over from the ancient Lycians.  You can read about them here (see the bottom of this page for a photo).  If you take the trail leading past the ambars, you can hike to the top of the mountain and get a fantastic view over Kalkan and the sea.
A trip to Bezirgan is an opportunity for a glimpse into a very different way of life than most of us are used to, a visit back in time.  The most beautiful time of the year to visit is in May when the valley is covered in sweeping fields of crimson poppies.
Bezirgan

Influence of Lycian House Construction on
Architecture in Lycia Today

Wooden grain storehouses and "ambars" (a large type of storehouse) are often seen in Lycia - almost primarily in Lycia, in the area between Bezirgan and Elmali.  They share many characteristics with Lycian rock-cut house-type tombs and may be a last vestige of Lycian house construction methods.  The best examples of these storehouses are in the village of Beyler near Elmali.  Unfortunately, there are only a few masters alive who know how to construct these buildings using a technique of interlocking joints; it seems that the art will die with them.
grain storehouses, Lycia
Village of Yavu near the site of Cyaneae
 
grain storehouse, Lycia
Semi-nomadic settlement near Cyaneae
 
Interior of a grain storehouse, Sidyma
 
Ambar in village of Beyler near Elmali, next to the side of the main road
 
Detail of the above ambar
 
Ambars, village of Beyler, near Elmali (across the street from the ambar in the above photo, tucked behind a building - many ambars in this grouping).
 
More ambars, village of Beyler, near Elmali
 
Ambars in Bezirgan village near Kalkan.

Situated 700 metres up in the Taurus Mountains and 22km from the coast of the Mediterranean is the summer village of Bezirgan.  During the hot months of summer residents from Kalkan move here for the cooler temperatures.
In modern times it serves primarily as a farming village; producing wheat, chickpeas, sesame, almonds and walnuts.  The village comprises of many traditional farmhouses, constructed from stone, cedar wood and covered with soil roofs.  Being constructed from these materials makes these houses naturally cool.  More recently some of these roofs have been restored with modern tiles; however, a large number of these traditional buildings are now going to ruin.
Bezirgan was historically the site of the ancient city of Pirha.  Currently only the city walls remain, but small traces of temples and buildings amongst the rubble show the city must have been impressive.If you are interested in nature and wildlife you should add Bezirgan to your list of places to visit.  It is an ideal place for bird watching as it is home to a large variety of species, located throughout the mountains and on the plains.


Pirha Ruins
 

The best beaches in and around Kalkan

Our Beach Guide

The best beaches in and around Kalkan

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Kaputas Beach
On the road between Kalkan and Kas, the beach at Kaputas is formed by a gorge that opens out into a stretch of sand. The long flight of steps down from the road (almost 200!) means there are very limited facilities on the beach, so its a good idea to bring water and a parasol. The local Belidye are planning to improve facilities at the beach soon, with the provision of toilets, changing rooms, and a small café selling drinks and snacks.Umbrellas are available for approx 5tl and sunbeds are available for the same price. Some limited refreshments can be bought from enterprising locals. It is a popular beach with locals and visitors, and is often visited by Gulet's and yachts for it's Turquoise waters and good swimming. On a windy day the waves can get quite strong. Dolmuses (minibuses) between Kalkan and Kas stop off at Kaputas. The journey takes around 10 minutes.
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Patara Beach
Patara beach is around 20 minutes from Kalkan by car or the Dolmus services (5 ot 6 YTL each way) that run from Kalkan. Part of a national park, it is a key biodiversity area, rich in birdlife and the breeding ground of the endangered loggerhead turtle (caretta caretta). Luckily the beach has been declared off-limits for development because of the turtles, they are nearing extinction and protection of their nesting sites on the Turkish coast is very important. The beach is closed after sunset from May to October to give the turtles peace in which to lay their eggs as it is the second most important turtle nesting beach in Turkey.
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Parking at the beach is free (as of 2012) and a boardwalk leads from the car park across the sand to the sea. This sandy beach, has many shells at it's shore line and is good for swimming, although care needs to be taken with currents. At 12km long, it is a lovely place to walk, with sand dunes and mountains providing a very scenic back drop.
Voted as one of the top beaches in the world by Times Online in 2005, a visit to Patara beach also enables visitors to look around the major Roman and Lycian historical ruins just 15 minutes walk behind the beach.
Even in the height of summer it is never crowded. The absence of development and no water sports means that it is always peaceful. There is a café at the end of the boardwalk that sells snacks and drinks, and hires sunbeds and parasols.
Kalkan Beach
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To the left of and at the entrance to Kalkan harbour, Kalkan's white pebble beach is very popular with visitors and locals. The water is incredibly clear, and often calm and it has a blue flag award for cleanliness, making it very good for swimming and snorkelling. Toilet and changing facilities are available just behind the beach, and sunbeds/umbrellas can be hired at a very reasonable rate. There are harbour front restaurants, shops and cafes all within 2 minutes walk of the beach. Kalkan beach enjoys late evening sun, and is a lovely place to watch the yachts and gulets returning back to harbour in the early evening. This beach is just around a 3 minute walk from our Kalkan Old Town accommodation.

Kalkan and Patara


What Makes Kalkan Special -Kalkan is a place to fall in love with …


Kalkan Sunset
A small peaceful Mediterranean resort and fishing town on the beautiful Turquoise Coast of Turkey, Kalkan has not been touched by mass tourism. More sophisticated than the usual resort town, Kalkan appeals to travelers looking for more than a “sun and sea” holiday. According to the Sunday Times, Kalkan attracts the kind of visitor who would also enjoy Tuscany or the Dordogne. The Guardian likens the town to “the Italian Riviera minus the poseurs.”
Because of its great charm, Kalkan has a growing number of perennial visitors who say the town is the only holiday destination they would choose to visit repeatedly. There is simply no other town quite like Kalkan along Turkey’s coast.
Kalkan curls snuggly around a historic harbour sheltered at the foot of the towering Taurus Mountains. (Read more about the geography of the region at our Lycia website here) The town overlooks a beautiful bay in which islands seem to magically float upon the shimmering sea.
Narrow streets twist down to the harbour, lined with old whitewashed villas with shuttered windows situated alongside small local specialty shops and restaurants in historic buildings. Overhead hang original carved Ottoman Greek timber balconies garlanded with thick masses of brilliantly coloured bougainvillea cascading to the streets below. It is a very special place with a unique atmosphere.
Why is Kalkan so special?
Not only is Kalkan beautiful, but unlike other Turkish coastal resort towns Kalkan’s main economy is tourism and therefore its citizens put much pride and effort into the town’s historic preservation. Because of this, Kalkan has retained the texture of its history by protecting its distinctive Ottoman Greek architecture (it was once an Ottoman Greek and Turkish fishing village). Very strict building codes keep the town small and architecturally blended with the historic heart of the town known as “Old Kalkan”.
Kalkan street"Old Kalkan""Mouse" and "Snake" Islands in Kalkan Bay
Besides the famous “Kalkan Style” historic architecture, the many excellent restaurants of Kalkan contribute to the special atmosphere within Kalkan. Good dining has always been the way of life in Kalkan and continues today. In fact, Kalkan is said to have the highest number of restaurants and bars per inhabitant or square meter on the Turkish coast (over 100 of them!). Additionally, Kalkan is especially renowned in Turkey for its numerous roof terrace restaurants and bars which offer a wonderful view of the town, sea and stars. It’s also nice to sit at one of the many fine harbour-side restaurants and watch the pleasure boats and fishermen leave early in the morning as you eat your breakfast, or see the fishing boats return with the day’s catch in the evening.
There is lots to do during the day and nightlife is fun, but laid-back. You won’t find noisy, wild nightlife here, like in some other coastal resorts.
Kalkan has many fine qualities, but without a doubt, it is the people of Kalkan who make the town extra special.
The people of Kalkan warmly welcome you, and you may at first be surprised by the universal friendliness within the town. This, along with warm Turkish hospitality is the basis of life here and the people of Kalkan sincerely enjoy getting to know their guests. So don’t hesitate to accept one of the many tulip-shaped glasses of çay (tea) you will be offered while you amble along Kalkan’s winding streets. You won’t be hassled while you are a guest of Kalkan – the town is hassle-free and is proud to be so. You will find a mixed population here, consisting of locals, some Istanbul Turks and Turks from other cities who have made Kalkan their home and own small businesses, as well as a small number of well-educated foreigners who have settled in the town.
So, “Hoş Geldiniz!” – we extend a warm welcome to you from Kalkan and look forward to meeting you soon…
Patara Beach
Patara Beach
Patara beach is stunning and makes an enjoyable visit as well as the nearby ancient site of Patara, with its gorgeous landscape and great swimming. Part of a national park, it is a key biodiversity area, rich in birdlife and the breeding ground of the endangered loggerhead turtle (caretta caretta). Luckily the beach has been declared off-limits for development because of the turtles, they are nearing extinction and protection of their nesting sites on the Turkish coast is very important. The beach is closed after sunset from May to October to give the turtles peace in which to lay their eggs as it is the second most important turtle nesting beach in Turkey.

Loggerhead sea turtle (caretta caretta)The beach is an 12 kilometer-long strip of sand bordered on its ends by mountains and along its length by sand dunes and the large marshy area which once was the harbour of Patara. Voted as one of the top beaches in the world by Times Online, Best of 2005 and known as the "widest beach of the northern Mediterranean. Only about a 15 minute stroll from some of the major ruins, even in the height of summer it is never crowded. The absence of development and no water sports means that it is always peaceful. There is only one café near the end of the path to the beach, it also rents out sunbeds and umbrellas.



Kurşunlutepe, Patara

These views were taken from Kuşunlutepe hill directly behind the amphitheatre. If you can climb to the top of the hill, it is well worth the 360 degree view (climb up from the top of the theatre which is built into the hill). More information about the hill can be found below.


Numbers correspond with photos above and below
 
1. Amphitheatre
2. Bouleuterion
3. Roman Ante Temple
4. Vespatian Bath
5. Central Bath
6.
Main Avenue, Stoa and Southern Gate
7. Harbor Bath ("Date Bath")
8. Tepecik Acropolis
9. Arch of Modestus
10. Tepecik Necropolis
11. "Middle Ages City"
12. Patara's harbor, now a marsh
13. Pseudoperipteral Temple Tomb
14. Hadrian's Granary
15. Lighthouse
16. Road to the beach



More views from atop the hill

Not too much has been found on this hill, contrary to excavators expectations. There are the remains of a base that may be the foundation of an Athena temple and a rock-cut sarcophagus and a rock carving with a pedestal. The slope that goes down to the harbor was a necropolis with the remains of sarcophagi and monumental tombs.
The ancient city of Patara is situated between Fethiye and Kalkan, in the southwest corner of the plentiful Xanthos Valley. Exit off the main road onto the Gelemis Road, then drive down this road for five kilometers until you reach the ruins of Patara. The finding of coins and ceramic fragments in recently carried out excavations that date back to the 7th century B.C., has given us reason to take Patara's history back even further. Patara is renowned as the birthplace of Apollo and is one of the oldest and most imp cities of Lycia. The Hittite King Tudhalia IV ( 1220 B.C.) was known to have said, "I sacrifices and presented gifts while facing Mountain, I erected stelai, and constructed sacred buildings. II What we understand from this is that Patara was known during the Hittite Age as Patar. As the principal port on the coast of Patara has a long history. For this reason excavations are bound to bring the city's a history to light. We know that the city existed 5th-6th centuries B.C. and that it was save( destruction when it opened its gates to Alex During the wars of Alexander's successors, enjoyed considerable importance as a naval bi which capacity it was occupied by Antigonus i B.C. and by Demetrios at the time of his siege of Rhodes in 304. In the 3rd century B.C., the city with the rest of Lycia under Egyptian control. period it bore the Egyptian name Arsinoe; this did not survive beyond the Egyptian rule. Patara was re-captured by Antiochus III in 190 B.C., uttered the saying "Caput gentis", that is, Ancestors' Capital" to describe Patara, which exalted it above all the other cities. Patara had a three-vote right in the 1 League, like the cities of Xanthos, Tlos, Olympos Myra. The League generally held its 11 conferences in Patara, which was its harbor a Patara, which didn't lose its importance during the Roman Empire, was also the seat of the F provincial governor, who turned it into a port from which the Roman fleet maintained contact with eastern provinces. In the meantime, Patara was harbor where crops harvested in Anatolia v stored and kept for shipment to Rome. A Andriace, silos were built here to store grain during the reign of Emperor Hadrian, who had visited Patara with his wife Sabina and stayed there for a short period. During the Roman Age, Patara, which became the capital of both the Lycian Pamphylian provinces, also became famous as 01 Apollo's soothsaying centers. Ancient writers refer to Patara as birthplace of Apollo as well as the home 0 important oracle, who they say interpreted or during the winter in Patara and during the sun in Delos. During the Byzantine period, Patara again lost none of its importance, and became a Christian center of some significance, as St. Nicholas, whom we know as Santa Claus, was born here. St. Paul set out for Rome by boarding a ship from Patara. However unfortunately, subsequent to this period apparently rejected by the gods and saints alike, harbor of Patara, which was 1 ,600 meters long 400 meters wide, silted up which prevented going vessels from entering it. This meant that city gradually lost its importance. Since then the city has gradually been covered with sand dunes, witch has given it the appearance of a desert resulting the slow obliteration of all the ruins left standing. In recent years Prof. Fahri Isik and his from Akdeniz University have been trying to dig spellbinding city out from under the sand. Let's a walk together through one of the most famous cities in history. On the way to Patara, we may see the remains of Roman tombs by the side of the road, about knee-high, and several tombs of the Lycian type, which indicate that this was the site of a necropolis. We also notice a monumental gate still standing which was the entrance to the city. According to its inscription, this victory arch was built in 100 A.D. by the Roman governor, Mettius Modestus. At the same time, this arch was used as a part of the aqueduct that brought water to Patara. Before arriving at the victory arch, one can see the monument tombs situated in the lower part of the road, along the edge of the lake, which has taken the place of the ancient harbor. These magnificent t have survived for the most part to this day. here one may notice the harbor church, measuring 12 x 9.10 meters, with three aisles. This church remains submerged in water for most of the year There are many temples in Patara. A bust of Apollo was discovered on the hill beyoI1 city gate, which indicates the existence of an Apollo Temple, the whereabouts of which are still not clear. In fact, what we do know is that during the first century of Roman rule, the center of the oracle of Apollo fell into disrepair, but that Opramoas, a rich Lycian whose name is to be seen throughout Lycia and who himself came from Rhodiapolis, had the town of Patara resurrected. Though the birthplace of the 'god Apollo, who was the child of Zeus and Leto, may be shown to be several places, it is accepted that he was born in Patara. Apollo is an Anatolian god. In the Iliad, Homer mentions him as "Phoibos", which means 'illuminated', and 'the famous Lycian archer, Apollo.' For this reason, he along with his Anatolian sister, Artemis had always aided the Trojans and their Anatolian city, Troy. The name 'Lycia' meant 'illuminated nation' in ancient times, whereas their head god, Apollo, was perceived to have light in his lineage. Right next to the victory arch is a sarcophagus from the Roman period. To the west of the sarcophagus are the ruins of the Date Baths. With its floor decorated with thick stones and mosaics, these baths were called Date Baths due to the giant date trees next door. These baths belonged to the Roman period, and were also used during the Byzantine Age. One hundred meters ahead is a road sign measuring 2.35 m. long x 1.60 wide x 5.50 m high. This road sign, which was discovered in recent excavations, was made by Quintus Veranius on the orders of Emperor Claudius and it is extremely important as it shows the distances between the Lycian cities. This is the world's oldest and most comprehensive road sign. Walking along the asphalt road, we come to some ruins of a church at the side of the road. It is understood that the church was constructed with previously used stones from the architectural fragments in the inner walls. Walking just beyond this church encounters the tomb of Marciana in the middle, wall. whereas one may find the Vespasian Bath in the western corner of this tomb. They are called Vespasian Baths on account of the money he had aside for their construction. The baths measure 105 x 48 meters and were partitioned in sections. In order to see inside the baths you step over the large stones. If we stay on the 6 next to the baths, we shall reach Anatolia's main avenue, which was 12.5 meters in width covered in marble. Under the main avenue high quality sewage network. There are stoa up along the western part of the main avenue, which opens out to several roads, Today, this main avenue spends most of the time underwater. The city's central baths are located at the eastern end of the avenue, whereas there are ruins of a small baths complex at the western end. A little further along the road and we encounter the wide walls of a Byzantine fortress. To the east of this fortress is a Corinthian temple that was constructed from well arranged stones, the owner of which is unknown. Measuring 13 x 11 x 6.10 meters this 2nd century A.D. 'in antis' plan temple, had plenty of architectural ornamentation. The theater, which is set into a slope, is unfortunately half-buried in sand. A team from Akdeniz University has been continuing its excavation studies and just like other sites around Patara, has been removing the sand from the theater. An inscription on the eastern side of the skene indicates that it was built by Velia Prouila and her father in 147 A.D. North of the theater is what was known as Anatolia's largest administration building (the ecclesterium) , which measures 43 m long by 29 m wide. At the top of the hill behind the theater is a monument tomb, whereas, nearby is an 8-meter deep cistern that has been carved into the rock. To the west of the cistern is a part of the walls of the harbor lighthouse of Patara. Hadrian's Granary can be seen in a swamp next to the harbor. This building, called the horrea or granarium, measured 67 x 19 meters and was divided into eight sections. Next to this, one can encounter a large temple-tomb that is still intact. This temple tomb, which was constructed from thick and showy stones, must have been quite magnificent during ancient times. From here, there are a number of monument tombs of various sizes stretching all the way out to the village. In addition, there are tombs to be found on the hill opposite the ticket office. The marshy reeds in the lake that used to be a harbor in ancient time whisper about the splendor of ancient Patara. We believe that new discoveries will continue to occur in the new excavation work currently taking place in Patara, whereas one day, the sleeping Patara is going to achieve the fame she deserves.